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Luang Namtha


Area: 9,325 sq. km
Population:
145 thousand habitants
Capital of the province:Namtha
Districts:Namtha, Muang Sing, Muang Long, Viengphoukha and Nalae. Capital of the province: Namtha.


Overview

Tucked in the northwestern corner of Lao PDR, Luang Namtha covers an area of 9,325 square kilometers with more than 85% of its terrain being low calciferous mountains that rise to between 800 " 2,000 meters above sea level. The highest point (2,094 masl) is found in Vieng Phoukha District and several peaks that approach 2,000 meters can be found among the province’s central mountains that separate Namtha and Muang Sing. Like the rest of the country, Luang Namtha’s weather pattern is characterized by a rainy season lasting from May to October followed by a cool dry period from November to February. March and April are the hottest months. On average, daily temperature is a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius but during the cool season it can dip to zero on the coldest nights

 

To the north, Luang Namtha shares a 140 kilometer land border with the People’s Republic of China and its northwest frontier with Myanmar follows a 130 kilometer stretch of the Mekong River. Administratively, Luang Namtha Province is divided into 5 districts including Namtha, Nale, Vieng Phoukha, Long and Sing (Muang Sing) that are further divided into 380 village units. The provincial capital, which is also called Luang Namtha, is in Namtha District and is the most heavily populated town with nearly 45,000 inhabitants. Total population in 2005 was 145,310 with 78% classified as rural and 40% less than 14 years old.

 

Luang Namtha’s main industries are agriculture, wood processing, lignite and copper mining, handicraft production, transportation and tourism. In 2005 per-capita GDP stood at US$ 280 and grew at an annualized rate of 7.7%. In terms of employment, most people are engaged in agriculture, planting rice, corn, vegetables, cassava and peanuts. Other important agricultural products are buffaloes, cattle, fish, chickens, rubber, teakwood, watermelons, sugarcane and peppers. Forest products such as bamboo shoots, mushrooms, rattan, cardamom and ginger are also key sources of income for the rural population.




Luang Namtha History

Archaeological evidence including stone tools found in the Nam Jook River Valley in Vieng Phoukha and cliff paintings near Nale suggest that Luang Namtha Province was inhabited as early as 6,000 years ago. The first local written account of the province’s history appears in the Xieng Khaeng Chronicles that recount the founding of Xieng Khaeng on the banks of the Mekong River in the early 15th century by Chao Fa Dek Noi, a Tai-Lue that originated in the court of Chiang Rung. Xieng Khaeng grew into a modest principality that later found itself under the influence of the Lanna Kingdom of Northern Thailand until the early 16th century and then become a Burmese vassal from the mid 16th to the early 19th century. Beginning in the first half of the 19th century, Xieng Khaeng fell under Siamese domination and suffered from numerous conflicts. In 1885 Chao Fa Silinor eventually led more than 1,000 Tai-Lue subjects to what is present day Muang Sing for both strategic military reasons and in search of more expansive agricultural land.

 

South of Muang Sing it appears that there were considerable population movements taking place from the 16th to the 19th century as well, in both the Nam Tha Valley and Vieng Phoukha. In 1587 a group of 17 Tai-Yuan families arrived in the Nam Tha Valley from Chiang Saen, settling near present-day Vieng Tai Village. By 1624 Muang Houa Tha was established under the traditional Tai Muang administrative structure, ruled by 4 nobles of the Saenhansulin family. In 1628, Pathat Phoum Phouk and Pathat Phasat were constructed as symbols of friendship and neutrality between Muang Houa Tha and Chiang Saen. The original Pathat Phoum Phouk still exists and is located south of Luang Namtha Township. The ruins of Pathat Prasat, on the other hand, are north of town near the source of the Nam Dee Stream but have almost completely disappeared.



Vieng Phoukha was also prospering by the 17th century, with the construction of dozens of Buddhist monasteries and pagodas in the Nam Jook and Nam Fa River valleys. Evidence of what must have been a large population in Vieng Phoukha can be seen just north of the district capital, where an extensive khou vieng (earthen rampart) surrounds the ruins of sprawling Vat Mahaphot and many smaller pagodas.



Though Muang Houa Tha enjoyed peace and stability through most of the 17th century, beginning in 1709 a series of natural disasters weakened the Muang and it briefly came under the influence of the Sipsongpanna Kingdom centered in southern China. A population exodus to Muang Sing, Muang Nan (Thailand) and Muang Ngern (Sayabouli Province) ensued, eventually causing the Nam Tha Valley to become nearly completely abandoned for 155 years. During the late 1700’s prior to the reign of Chao Fa Silinor, one of the first main population movements into Muang Sing began with a group of Tai-Lue from Xieng Khaeng, led by a woman named Nang Khemma. Nang Khemma was the widow of Xieng Khaeng’s ruler at the time and went on to commission the construction of That Xieng Teung Stupa in 1787. Today, That Xieng Teung remains highly revered by Tai-Lue Buddhists throughout the region and is believed to contain a sacred relic of the Lord Buddha.



In 1890, the Tai-Yuan returned to the Nam Tha Valley under the aegis of Chao Luangsitthisan to re-establish Muang Houa Tha. Vat Luang Korn, one of Luang Namtha’s largest, was constructed shortly thereafter in 1892. However, the newly resettled Muang Houa Tha was to enjoy its independence for only two years. In 1894, following a meeting between the French, British and Siamese colonists, it was agreed that Muang Houa Tha would be administered by the French and the Mekong from the northern reaches of Muang Sing to Chiang Saen would serve as the border between French Indochina and British-ruled Burma. Not long after this divide took place the first group of Tai-Dam arrived from Sip Song Chou Tai in north western Viet Nam and established Tong Jai Village on the east bank of the Nam Tha River. At about the same time the Tai-Dam arrived, migrations of Tai-Neua, Tai-Kao, Akha, Lanten, Yao and Lahu originating in Sipsongpanna, Burma and northwest Viet Nam began to migrate to the area’s fertile valleys and the forested mountains surrounding them.



By the late-1950’s following France’s withdrawal from Indochina after their defeat at Dien Bien Phu, Muang Houa Tha again found itself embroiled in conflict - this time between the US-backed Royal Lao Army and the resistance government’s communist inspired Pathet Lao forces. On 6 May 1962, Muang Houa Tha came under control of the Pathet Lao and was renamed Luang Namtha Province, while the area between Houei Xay and Vieng Phoukha was called Houa Khong Province, nominally controlled by the Royalists until the establishment of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic in 1975. Between 1975 and 1983 Houa Khong and Luang Namtha were administered as a single province and then partitioned into what is present day Luang Namtha and Bokeo.




Getting around Luang Namtha

Luang Namtha is accessible by air, land and river. The most popular overland routes to and from the province start and end at Bokeo Province's Ban Houey Xay and Luang Prabang. There is an international border crossing at Boten (China-Laos) and regular air service from Vientiane on Lao Airlines. For adventuresome travelers, try a journey up the Mekong River from Ban Hooey Xay to Xieng Kok in Muang Long, or a 2-day river journey up the Namtha River, which also originates in Ban Houy Xay. Once you reach the province, local transport by Tuk Tuk, the bus or a Song Taeow is inexpensive and easy to arrange. For short trips, many people get around by renting bicycles.




Post, Communication and Internet Cafe

The general post offices postal services, faxing and public telephone for local, national and international calls. Phone cards can be purchased at many shops in Luang Namtha town or at the Lao Telecom Company. There are a couple of internet shops in town for e-mailing and some guesthouse offer phone services. Sending packages home through the normal mail service is inexpensive and generally reliable. For urgent or valuable mail (either to or from Laos) it is advisable to use EMS or another reliable courier such as DHL or FedEx.




Bank, Money Exchange

BCEL open 8:30-16:00, Exchanges US dollar travels cheques and cash; gives cash advances credit cards, ATM; Lao Development Bank, Exchanges US dollar travelers cheques and cash. The Agriculture Bank exchanges US dollar.




Where to eat?

Many local restaurants offer Lao, Chinese, Thai, Indian and Western style food. Choose one of the restaurants located along the main strip in Luang Namtha. Excellent Lao coffee and baguettes are also available throughout the day. Some famous local food and beverages are Kao soi (Soft rice noodle soup) in the Luang Namtha market, bitter bamboo shoot soup and rattan dipping sauce from Namtha's fresh market, Lao Hai (rice wine in a jar) and the ubiquitous Lao Lao.




WHERE TO DO AND TO SEE

The That Phoum Pouk (Phoum Pouk Stupa)

The stupa is located near Nam Ngaen village on a hill in the northeast part of the Namtha Valley. The original stupa was constructed in 1628 to demarcate neutral territory between the Kingdoms of Lane Xang (centered in Luang Prabang) and Lane Na (centered in Chiang Mai). In 1966 the old stupa was destroyed when an American plane dropped a bomb on it. The new monument seen besides the older, ruined stupa was constructed in 2003.




The center night market

Newly renovated Night Market is located in the centre of Luang Namtha Town, where local villagers from many different ethnic minorities offer their unique handicrafts for sale. The Night Market opens every evening and is a good place for eating typical Lao dishes or, occasionally, for watching dance or music performances




The Handicraft village Ban Pieng Ngam and The distillery village Ban Nam Ngaen

The handicraft village Ban Pieng Ngam and the distillery village Ban Nam Ngaen have two ethnic groups, the Thai Deang and the Thai Kao. The villages are famous for their many different handicrafts. A small lodge built by the Nam Ha Ecotourism Project, offers accommodation for anybody who is interested to experience the rural Lao lifestyle. Not far, within walking distance from Ban Pieng Ngam is the Lao Lao distillery village Ban Nam Ngaen, where people can see the process of making the famous Lao Rice whiskey. You can go by bicycle following the map in this guide book.




Luang Namtha Museum

The provincial museum has a variety of artifacts made by Luang Namtha's multi-ethnic people. Of particular interest is the extensive collection of indigenous clothing as well as many agricultural tools and household implements used in daily life. The museum has an excellent collection of Buddha images, bronze drums, ceramics and textiles. Also of interest are the traditional hand-made weapons on display that were once used for hunting and national defense.




The traditional Thai Kaolm Style house in Ban Vieng

Ban Vieng Neua (Tai Kalom) is located about 3 km from the town center, close to the airport. The house is built according to the traditional style of the Kalom people (Kalom, also known as Tai Yuan), although some modern toilet facilities have been added. The house can be used by the local villagers for meetings, weeding ceremonies and other events. It also serves as a tourist attraction, where local and international tour companies are able to show visitors the traditional customs and food of the Lao people. The villagers of Ban Vieng Neua are very proud to keep their traditional customs and welcome visitors to see it. They are able to offer a range of services, ranging from bacci ceremonies, dance performances, lunch or dinner and cooking classes. These services can be booked by tourists through the Tourism Information Office in Luang Namtha Town, or by any tour company in Laos.




Nam Dee Waterfall

About 6 km northeast of the town centre, the Lao Huay (Lenten) village of Ban Nam Dee (Good water) is a good place to observe the progress of bamboo papermaking. Behind the village you will see the entrance to the Nam Dee Waterfall. The area around the waterfall offers good facilities, like a small handicraft shop managed by the villagers; toilets and a house for picnics, etc.

 




Luang Namtha Stupa

A long time ago Sy Sod So Tammikarad King of Xieng Sean (Xieng Sean the north of Thailand present) and Naleatafai king of Chantabouly (Oudomxay present), they were built two Stupa for friendship. The fist Phoum Pouk Stupa and the second located on the east of the head of Namtha River, The second Stupa was lost to the forest, but recently rebuilt on 27 Dec 2004. Now called the Luang Namtha Stupa, it’s easy to access from the north end of town.




Luang Namtha Temple

The Tai Yuan and Tai Lue are devoutly Buddhist. Hence, there are 3-4 Vats (temples) and monasteries in the area. Vat Ban Luang Khon, the most important in the area, is located on the main road next to the airport. Vat Ban Vieng Nuea, Vat Ban Vieng Tai, is also quite beautiful and is located on the main road to airport too.




Activities

Luang Namtha’s main tourist attractions are the Nam Ha National Protected Area, the historic town of Muang Sing, caves and archaeological sites in Vieng Phoukha, more than 20 officially recognized ethnic groups, and the Nam Tha River and its tributaries. Underpinning these attractions are a wealth of diverse tourism resources that include forested mountains in and around the Nam Ha NPA, the indigenous knowledge and traditional culture of the multi-ethnic population, and local artisans producing quality handicrafts such as textiles, paper and baskets.

 

There has been much international acclaim given to Luang Namtha as an ecotourism destination, and ecotourism constitutes the majority of tourism activity in the province. Luang Namtha is featured prominently in the main international guidebooks about Lao PDR and articles about ecotourism-related developments and tour products appear intermittently in the international media, especially regional publications such as the Asian Wall Street Journal, Bangkok Post, Vientiane Times and tourism-industry magazines and newsletters. Main activities such as: Trekking, Kayaking, Boat tour, Capping, Cycling, Biking and Homestay




Minority Groups

Luang Namtha Province is home to more than 20 different ethnic groups, making it a remarkable repository of ethnic diversity and indigenous knowledge. The traditional clothing, handicrafts, livelihood systems and rituals of these ethnic groups are a valuable part of the province’s cultural heritage. Use of the term “ethnic minority” is somewhat of a misnomer in Luang Namtha, as ethnic minorities by far outnumber the ethnic Lao that make up only about 3% of the provincial population. According to the 2005 census, there are more Akha in Luang Namtha than any other single ethnic group, numbering 36,531 or 25.1% of the provincial population. The Akha primarily inhabit upland areas in Muang Sing and Long District, with some villages found in Namtha. The next largest ethnic group is the Khmu, who make up 24.5% of the population, followed by the Tai-Lue that account for 12.2%. Some of the provinces oldest continuously inhabited settlements are the ancient Tai-Lue villages found in the northern reaches of Muang Sing. Other Tai groups including the Tai-Dam, Tai-Khao and Tai-Daeng account for 10.1% of the population and live mostly in the Namtha Valley.

 

The short descriptions that follow are intended to provide a brief introduction to Luang Namtha’s main ethnic groups and highlight some aspects of their material and traditional culture.




Akaha

The Akha are a Tibeto-Burman speaking ethnic group that first appeared in Laos around the mid-19th century. Akha life is characterized by a ritual and ethical code which provides them with strict guidelines on how to live their lives " this is sometimes called the “Akha Way” (Akha zang). The “Akha Way” not only includes all Akha traditions, ceremonies and customary law, but it also determines how they cultivate their fields, hunt animals, how sickness is viewed and treated, and the manner in which Akha people relate to one another and to outsiders. The Akha have an amazing knowledge of the forest and rotational agriculture, with many villages still located high in the mountains. Akha women are easily recognizable by their distinctive costumes which consist of black cotton mini-skirts and black, tight-fitting bodices covered by jackets decorated with embroidery and appliqué designs, topped by an intricate head-dress.

 

Akha settlements are marked by their towering swings and gates " both at the front and back of the village. These gates mark the boundary between the human world and the outside, natural world. The gate is usually flanked by a pair of male and female wooden figures and woven bamboo symbols. Visitors to the village can pass through the village gates, but should not touch the gate, the wooden figures or anything else associated with the gate.




Khmu

The Khmu or their ancestors probably settled the area of present-day Laos several thousand years ago and are one of the most populous ethnic groups in Laos. Part of the Mon-Khmer branch of the Austro-Asiatic linguistic family, the Khmu are divided into many sub-groups including the Khmu Lue, Kwaen, Rok and Ou, with the majority of Khmu in Luang Namtha being Kwaen or Rok. Like many of the ethnic groups in northern Laos, the Khmu are not Buddhist, but practice their own form of animism.

 

The Khmu in Luang Namtha generally practice mixed economies, growing rice, hunting, gathering forest products and producing handicrafts to generate some cash income. Because the Khmu are highly knowledgeable about medicinal plants and are highly-skilled producers of woven rattan and bamboo basketry, many Khmu villages are regularly visited by tourists that purchase handicrafts and hire local guides to lead them on forest treks. Tourism has become a new and important source of income for a number of Khmu villages in Namtha and Vieng Phoukha District, especially in the villages located on the Ban Nalan Trekking Trail.




Tai-Lue
The Tai-Lue are linguistically linked to the lowland Lao and other Tai-Lao speakers such as the Tai-Dam and Tai-Dang. Originating in southern China, the Tai-Lue began settling present day Muang Sing (Xieng Kaeng) in the 15th century. They are known for their beautiful, many-stilted houses with long sloping roofs, potent alcoholic spirits made from rice, and intricately woven cotton textiles. Tai-Lue practice Theravada Buddhism and every village will typically have a Buddhist temple and monks. Most Tai-Lue males are ordained for at least a short time at some point on their lives. In the center of each village is a sacred Village Pillar where rituals that predate the arrival of Buddhism are held.



Hmong
Hmong traditionally locate their villages on the top of mountains, although today most Hmong communities are situated at lower altitudes. Hmong people are known for their knowledge of the forest, proficiency as hunters, ability to prepare herbal medicines, and for their expertise at raising animals, particularly horses. Hmong traditional dress is adorned with intricate embroidery and heavy silver jewelry and some villages still know how to produce batik on hemp or cotton textiles using beeswax and indigo dyes. During Hmong New Year in December/January numerous festivities take place including top-spinning competitions, trade fairs, singing and tossing of the mak kone (a small ball made of fabric) by young men and women as part of a courting ritual. Known as industrious and shrewd traders, the Hmong trade a variety of forest products and agricultural goods. In fact, the first village to experiment with the commercial rubber production that is so prevalent in the province today was Had Yao Village, a Hmong community located just north of Luang Namtha Town.



Tai-Dam

Characterized by colorful head-scarves and tight-fitting shirts adorned with silver buttons, Tai-Dam women are easily identified. The Tai-Dam in Luang Namtha are believed to originate in north western Viet Nam, and began to migrate to the Nam Tha Valley in the late 19th century. Today there are 13 Tai-Dam Villages in Luang Namtha and they are one of the Nam Tha Valley’s main ethnic groups. Tai-Dam differ from many other Tai groups in that that are not Buddhist, instead practice a form of ancestor and spirit worship. They make potent form of lao lao that is consumed socially and used for ritual purposes. Well-known producers of fine quality silk and cotton textiles, many local Tai-Dam women export directly to markets in Japan and the USA.



Lanten

The Lanten wear distinctive black indigo-dyed cotton clothing with pink trim and silver jewelry. They too have migrated south from China over the past hundred years or so, bringing cultural practices and beliefs based on a mix of Taoism, ancestor and spirit worship. The Lanten live primarily along the province’s smaller rivers and streams, and are sometimes referred to as Lao Houay, meaning “stream Lao.” The Lanten produce high quality cotton cloth, wooden ceremonial masks and durable bamboo paper. Like the closely related Yao, they have a well developed writing system based on ancient Chinese characters. Men record religious texts, rituals and legends on bamboo paper that is produced by Lanten women.

 

One place that Lanten ceremonial masks are still being made is in Nam Lue Village. Mr. Lao Lee, a Lanten shaman that lives in Nam Lue village reports that the production of these masks almost completely stopped from the mid 1970’s until the late 1990’s, when it was revived due to a combination of support from the government to strengthen cultural industries and tourist’s interest in purchasing them.




Lahu

The Lahu originated in southern China and now live across parts of Myanmar, Thailand and northern Laos. Most Lahu villages in Laos are located in Bokeo Province and Luang Namtha’s Vieng Phoukha and Long Districts. The name Lahu is derived from the word la hou, which means to breed tigers in the Lahu language. Like the Akha, the Lahu practice their own distinct form of spirit and ancestor worship, with good and bad spirits associated with natural phenomena, the house, livestock, the forest, and many other things. Rituals and celebrations associated with the agricultural cycle, marriage and house-building take place throughout the year. The most colorful is the New Year festival that usually takes place during January/February each year.




The Nam Ha National Protected Area
The mountainous center of Luang Namtha Province has been designated as the Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA). It was first established by a prime minister's order in 1993 and stretches from the Chinese border through the middle of the province, covering over 222,400 square-hectares. The Nam Ha NPA's landscape is very diverse, characterized by an ever changing mosaic of Sweden fields and regenerating forests. Very old forest remains in a few remote areas due to inaccessibility and local custom. Within the NPA boundaries there are two peaks that exceed 2,000 meters, as well as an abundance of rivers and streams. The NPA's main purpose is to protect biodiversity and habitat for wildlife found in northern Laos. Species such as Tiger, Leopard and the huge Gaur (a type of wild cow) still roam the forest throughout the reserve, although large mammals are very hard to see because of low population densities and fear of people. Residents that are easier to encounter are the some 300 species of birds, which include Silver Pheasants, jewel-like Blue and Eared Pitas as well as a diversity of Bulbuls. On the highest peaks there are species more closely associated with the Himalayas that are found in only a few other parts of Laos.



Eco-Tourism

Trekking, Hiking, Kayaking, Rafting, Biking, Mountain, Mountain Biking, Boat Tour through the villages of Luang Namtha, Muang Sing, Vieng Phoukha and Long makes you a partner in improving people’s lives and in preserving the wonders of the Nam Ha NPA.


Single or multi day trekking tours led by trained local guides depart daily, including village visits and homestays. Many other activities such as boat tours, special tours for wildlife trekking or learning about rural lifestyles have been developed for visitors. The communities have been involved in tourism development and are actively participating and receiving a significant part of the benefits. Working to conserve and protect the natural and culture heritage of Luang Namtha and the Nam Ha NPA’s Biodiversity is the main objective of Ecotourism.



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